Have been doing road trips here and there, mostly southern sides of West Bengal, some upto Odisha. Then in the last two years, few places up North (of West Bengal). Satkosia, Odisha and Borong, Sikkim were definitely trips worth remembering. Yet something was missing. Was eagerly waiting for a road trip, where I won’t have any plan to stick to or be worried by a tight schedule. But in today’s lifestyle, you all know how hard that is, right??
Diwali holidays weren’t looking good either. Probabilities of work being scheduled throughout, were very high. Because of that, didn’t book tickets to my native either. Yet, fate came knocking! Work got completed at 1230am on Satarday morning!! Got back home, immediately made a decision that we will start in the morning at whenever-we-can-after-a-good-sleep!! Then slept!! And that’s how this trip started!!
Always had in mind few places around Maghalaya, which we wanted to visit. During this trip, covered them. Additionally, visited some places, which we came to know incidentally, from people we met during our trip, and from map surfing.
Day 2 (Umiam Lake day 
):
Ok, so on day 1, we managed to start finally at around 12noon, had lunch at hotel Sankosh Valley, just before crossing West Bengal – Assam border, and the whole day was gone in reaching Guwahati (from Falakata, West Bengal). That helped us reach this beautiful Umiam lake pretty early on Day 2!! Such a big lake and with the bright sunlight, the vast blue water was a spectacular sight. Spent sometime at the view point, some at the boating point and the nearby park, then left.
To have enough time the next day to visit two places of interests, we tried to reach as close as possible and on the way found Hotel Highwinds Lakeside near Thadlaskein Lake. Few more options are available near Jowai as well. Anyway, this hotel cost us 2400 per night, including breakfast (not buffet though). Pretty spacious room with a big window, which both of us liked very much. There is restaurent at ground floor, also a dhaba just across the road. But other than that, nothing much nearby.
Day 3 (Krang Shuri & Phe Phe falls day ):
We started early. On the way spotted some caves just besides the road. These are probably present throughout Meghalaya, though wonder how many are natural and how many from illegal mining activity. Spent sometime inside few of these caves. And then went to Krang Shuri falls. Wow, what a sight it was!! The beauty of this falls can’t really be expressed in words. In our life, we visit many places, and then feel that place is overhyped. But here, I felt the place is under-hyped, if at all!! Such crystal clear water having a bluish green or greenish blue colour, that natural pool where you can enjoy a swim of your life, it is truly a nature’s marvel!! There is boating nearby as well. Unlike many other falls, the number of stairs to reach the falls here is comparatively less. After spending quite a long time, we came back, had lunch near the parking area and left for Phe Phe falls, which was on our way back to hotel.
Phe Phe falls has two parts, Upper & Lower. And reaching either of them is physically tiring and time taking. After leaving the Main road, car goes till another 1.5km, upto Lumkutoor Resort. But from that parking area, it’s a boring and tiring walk of almost 2km till the top of the Upper part of the falls. Luckily, one maruti 800 plies between these two points and if it’s your lucky day, you will get it. Pay 50 per head and voila, you will cover this distance without tiring your legs. BUT you’ll get a shaky hips and back from the ride itself!! So after a bit of stretching, we went to Upper part. From there, it’s a long way down to reach the Lower part. The Upper falls has a unique thing and the water of the Lower part really falls from a very high point. I have tried to capture them in photos, otherwise it’s very difficult to describe in words alone!! By the time we came back up, sun was already setting and it was a magnificent sight watching the falls from above with the sunset at the backdrop!! And yes, don’t miss the carnivorous Pitcher plants in the nearby bushes!!!
Day 4 (Dawki Lake & Mawlynnong village day ):
Checked out early, and started for Dawki. Last 15km or so, the roads are in pretty bad shape. Lorries carrying rocks were blocking one lane of the two-lane road, so much dust and that made matters worse. Just as we crossed the bridge on Umngot river, one person started running behind our car. Once we slowed down, he pointed us to a place on the side of the road itself to park. We obliged and he almost captured us and took us for boat ride!! We knew that the boat charge is 800 per boat, yet the person at the counter tried to convince for a 1200 rupees ride with some stoppages on the river bank in between. Seeing us in no mood for that, he gingerly agreed for 800. I won’t waste words to describe what we saw during the boat ride, let the photos speak!!! That floating boat scene is indeed there, it’s no gimmick!! And if you see it in your own eyes, that memory you’ll cherish for life!!!
Initial plan for this day was to start early and visit Double decker route bridge and Rainbow falls. But after we woke up, realised the weather scenario has completely changed overnight. Till the previous day, it was all sunny and everything, but this day was nothing like that. Raining intermittently throughout the night and all around it had become overcast and foggy. So dropped that plan and decided to start our return journey and left for Shillong. On the way, took a stop to see the iconic cloud-covered canyon views of Meghalaya. Our car also apparently got so spell-bound from the scenic surroundings that it refused to start for sometime. Just as we were getting anxious, may be it had had enough and decided to start again!! Took our breakfast at Highway Shacks and stayed for the night at a cosy, simple AirBnb in Nongkesh (1500 a night, had all amenities to cook). It’s near Shillong City, but away from the hustle and bustle!! It rained pretty heavily that night as well.
After Dawki, the road becomes even more treacherous!! And we were so engaged in tackling the non-existence of the road, we missed the turn that we had to take for Mawlynnong village. So had to come a long way back from Pongtung, though by a different road and luckily this road was in excellent condition!! This Village is indeed very clean but the extra effort to woo tourists is making things somewhat less natural and more artificial-looking, at least that’s what I felt. Went to see the Living Root Bridge of Riwai Village there, took lunch after that and then left. No fixed destination, but towards Cherapunji. Didn’t manage to go very far though, stayed at Moi Guest House in Pynursla. Room charge 1200, without breakfast. Very big room with awesome sunset view from room, big TV with HD channel subscription!! In the nearby Pynursla market, found a local restaurant that serves no-frills chicken-rice and it was yummy!!
Day 5 (Surprise day 
):
Didn’t have much plan for this day. After some map surfing, decided to go to nearby Mawjngih Lapynshongdor View Point, and after that to Laitlum Canyon. Just as we were about to start, the guest house owner came by and while having a casual talk, asked whether we went to something-I-didn’t-understand trek. Had to ask, what trek?? And got it the second time, Bamboo trek, Mawryngkhang. He told us it will take just about an hour to reach there, near a place called Wahkhen. A brief search and I realised that I did read about this place earlier somewhere in social media, but just didn’t realise it was here somewhere so close!!
Without any further thought, decision was made!! On the way, had a brief visit to Mawjngih Lapynshongdor View Point. Nice, but nothing extraordinary. A little further from that point, had to leave the Main Road towards Wahkhen and we drove for quite sometime till we reach the parking place, from where this Bamboo trek starts. Initially it’s all the way down till the riverbank, no bamboo upto that point. Cross the river, and within no time, a lovely pool appears in sight!! Crystal clean water, with lots of pebbles beneath and with the bright sunlight, it’s a gorgeous view from above!! And as soon as you go in, busy fishes come to you to relieve you from your unnecessary burden of dead skins!! But from here, the strenuous bamboo trek starts!! So it’s wise not to go to the pool at this point, rather to leave the dip to be had after completing the trek!!
It’s mostly up and up along the mountain and definitely not for the faint-hearted!! Yet, it’s an opportunity to win over your fears!! After walking for half an hour or so, the final destination comes into view. The rickety-looking bamboo track, up till the top, might not boost your confidence, but seeing the destination so close does enough good to your determination!! Another fifteen minutes, and you will find yourself at the final point, wind blowing at you from all sides, river flowing all the way down below!!! Overall this was a very nice experience and adventure-minded people should include this place in their itinerary.
Day 6 (
)
Nothing much interesting on this day. Visited Laitlum Canyon, and after that Mawkdok Dympep Valley View Point, while moving towards Cherrapunji. Checked In at Joyous Rooms, one night cost us 2200, for room only.
Day 7 (Change of plan day 
)
Day 8 (
):
Spent the morning at Police Bazar. Had excellent authentic Dosa at Qzine Restaurant and started for Guwahati. Got the car checked at the service centre, apparently the issue was due to an weakened battery. From the fear of being stranded again, replaced the battery, stopped at nearby Domino’s and settled for the night at Treebo Trend Arna Residency in Guwahati. Though the hotel is excellent for the price of 2000 with buffet breakfast, but it was a wrong decision to choose a hotel so much inside the city!! The last 7-8km took us almost an hour!!! 
Day 9 (Back to home sweet home day ):
It was the World Cup Final day. So with great anticipation in mind, started as early as possible so that I don’t miss much of the match!! Little did I knew then…. 
On our way, stopped at Chirang Hotel near Bongaigaon for lunch. It’s a simple looking roadside dhaba, but serves authentic Boro cuisine. Should try it. Nothing much other than that during the journey!!
One thing I would like to mention. In most (if not all) of these tourist places, there are entry fees, ranging from 20 – 50 mostly, 100 at some places. Though I’m not against collection of entry fees, but the way it is collected is not proper, to say the least. Mostly it is a small shop or counter, handing you the receipt. No way to understand whether it is done by the Govt or any Govt appointed agency or the local body.
Another peculiar thing I noticed during our travel through these parts of Meghalaya. Complete hillocks are literally being cut and sold as rocks/ boulders. A brief read in internet and I realised in Meghalaya, the tribal people, who are the local residents, are the owners of their land and have absolute right over resources both on and below the land. And this is being misused by really influential people, possibly with political backing, for illegal stone quarrying and coal mining, which is going on since, like ever!!
A great trip all the way through, though the match result indeed marred the overall feel at the end of the day!! Though it is what it is, such is LIFE!!
Meghalaya road trip plan
Meghalaya Travel Itinerary in 9D/8N
- Day 1: Reach Guwahati and stay
- Places to visit: Kamakya temple & nearby places
- Day 2: Drive to Umiam lake, bypass Shilong and stay near Thadlaskein Lake
- Places to visit: Umiam lake
- Day 3: stay
- Places to visit: Krang Shuri falls(swimming in the lagoon is the best part), Phe Phe falls, roadside caves.
- Day 4: Drive to Dawki, Mawlynnong and stay at Moi Guest House in Pynursla
- Places to visit: Dawki Lake & Mawlynnong village
- Day 5: stay
- Places to visit: Bamboo trek, Mawryngkhang
- Day 6: Drive to Cherapunji & stay
- Places to visit: Laitlum Canyon, Mawkdok Dympep Valley View Point, while moving towards Cherrapunji.
- Day 7: Drive to Shillong & stay
- Places to visit: Shillong sightseeing & market
- Day 8: Drive to Guwahati and stay
- Places to visit: marketing (& sightseeing)
- Day 9: Drive back home
Note:
Include another day to explore double decker root bridge, water falls and caves in Cherapunji.
Read the Cherapunji blog for details.
What to eat in Meghalaya?
Traditional food thali(includes rice & spicy meat), momo, fruits etc.
What not to miss while shopping in Meghalaya?
Meghalaya: Handicrafts made of bamboo, Eri silk, Policebazar is the shopping paradise in Shillong.
Guwahati: Handloom items, Silk saree, Assam tea
Meghalaya Road Trip cost:
Approx ₹35k for 2 persons
Car oil & toll: Approx 10k (Falakata to Falakata)
Stay: ₹1500-2500 per day
Food: ₹500 per person per day
Ticket: ₹500 total
< Pratik, an Electrical Engineer by profession, is passionate about electric gadgets and loves to do DIY home automation kind of work himself. An avid traveller, who loves to plan his own trip with family, friends and senior citizens. Originally from the land of Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore, Bolpur-Santiniketan. Currently lives in Falakata, North Bengal. >
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